The urban-chic attitude and sensuality are the two directions along which they move the parades of the day 6 of the New York Fashion Week, dedicated to different genres, but with the lowest common denominator a refined and elegant style.
Rich, sometimes traditional, sometimes innovative, more surprising but obvious, the New York Fashion Week FW 2016-2017 confirms day after day like a long journey through mode, very different genres and styles to each other, but united by the apparent willingness to “talk “to a large and varied audience.
So, on the sixth day they return three themes already explored by earlier walkways-unconventional attitude, luxury and romance-in a new sense that focuses on urban-chic style and sensuality, in the name of a creative pluralism (and commercial) that has as ultimate goal is to expand the boundaries of the fashion system.
One of the most convincing interpretations of the urban-chic attitude that pervades the sixth day of parades in the Big Apple is that of Narciso Rodriguez. The American designer of Cuban origin proposes a series of look characterized by bias cuts, overlapping panels, clean lines and basic volumes in a palette of natural colors – khaki, seal brown, gray, cream, black and gray-mirrored the atmosphere and color scheme of a metropolis, dressing a woman in fact pragmatic and looking for comfort but at the same time eager to stand out and assert their personality.
At the same groove raises the autumn-winter 2016-2017 collection of Tory Burch, but in this case the street mood is told from an ‘ inspiration seventies with a very specific connotation, the film L’Amour l’après-midi of Eric Rohmer. The result is a mix of ethereal dresses with fancy jacquard, long dress fluids with micro abstract prints, pantsuits and short skirt with minimalist design but not rigorous and essential outerwear, but enriched with geometric patterns of great character. The color and decorations are the pivot around which the whole proposal, in which there are two silver outfits that evoke the cult chief designer, the caftan.
In contrapposizine to a certain tendency androgynous sensuality is great potagonista the sixth day of New York Fashion Week FW 2016-2017 in a sense Baroque. The architectural and decorative style is in fact more or less openly evoked by designers who embrace this trend, namely Peter Copping and Kate and Laura Mulleavy.
For Oscar de la Renta ‘s first builds a collection inspired by the famous The Battle of Versailles Fashion Show in 1973, transforming the “clash” between the French and Americans in a contamination in the round, with shiny fabrics and “crispy”, damask prints and corsets mixed mesh stretch viscose, leather and fur. A stylistic evidence, however, fails to impress, despite the very interesting premise, for the lack of verve and innovative fidelity the heritage of the house unable to reinterpret the cornerstones in an original and contemporary, as done instead by Felipe Oliveira Baptista for Lacoste.
Anything but is instead the result obtained by Rodarte. After collections always dangerously prone to kitsch, the Mulleavy sisters choose to pay tribute to Francis Ford Coppola through a “history of San Francisco,” or their college memories with emotional focus on a local, Caffè Trieste, where graced numerous images black and white of the director. The result is a collection that echoes the baroque charm of southern Italy-not only artistic, but also conceptual, such as religious ceremonies – and for that very often elicits a feeling of déjà-vu. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have certainly not exclusive to the Mediterranean charm of the South, but the comparison is immediate and inevitable confrontation.
Sensuality urban chic
Halfway between the urban-chic attitude of Narciso Rodriguez and Tory Burch and baroque sensuality of Oscar de la Renta and Rodarte are placed collections of Chiara Boni and Vera Wang.
The Tuscan designer demonstrates once more all their sartorial talent and the ability to listen and look to turn into women’s desires enriching the proposal FW 2016-2017 of La Petite Robe of a new material: the leather. Together with stretch jersey which is the “trademark” of the house, it gives shape to a series of garments enveloping, ultra-feminine, sensual, metropolitan and one step beyond really beautiful, elegant and designed not only to be admired, but also-above all-to be worn. A small gem and great sartorial style, which does not surprise those who love Chiara Boni and can only conquer those who still do not know.
Post-modern, metro and overtly sexy, the autumn-winter 2016-2017 collection of Vera Wang condenses into garments from the forms and the chromatic strict the dual aesthetic and commercial vocation of the London Fashion Week (short for LFW by http://www.thesciencetutor.org/lfw-belstaff/), causing a sort of “shake-up” emotionally in audience with the unveiling of what really is the fashion weeks: an opulent, shiny, business.