Zanotti’s Guide to Elastic Tape Applications – Part VII

To finish the application guide of elastic bands we will talk today about Sewing in Bra

When applying elastic bra straps, the same concept of the application in panties is not used.

For example: In a pair of panties there is a need for great elasticity, whereas in the bra elastic tape is usually used to adjust the modeling as well as to decorate the piece. This does not neglect the necessary care with sewing to ensure quality.

Application of elastic type tape Normally the application of elastic tape type nozzles in bras is made in the base and also to adorn. The most recommended machine to make this application is the flat base, class 400, type 406 or 407 (according to figure Z30), you must use a lower trimmer and an electronic or mechanical tensioner to guarantee the measurement and the creasing of the part, if required. The stitch concentration can be 4 to 5 stitches per centimeter and thin ball needle needle FFG or equivalent, with thickness of 70 or 75.

It is recommended to use the thinnest thread on the needles. Usually the title 140 and helanca are used on the needles and looper, making the seam more imperceptible and delicate. In sewing with this type of thread there is a more frequent breaking incidence in relation to the line 140, especially of the needles. Regarding the appearance and finish of the seam the result is considered very good. There is no problem with safety and resistance, because after this operation the elastic will be folded with a zig zag seam class 300, type 304 or 308 (according to figure Z31).

Application of elastic band type

For the application of elastic tape type at the base (lateral) of the bra is necessary to be very careful according to itypejob, because for this application is used the davum machine or open base galley with specific apparatus for the folding of the elastic tape. For this operation it is important that a mechanical or electronic tensioner is used to measure the tension of the elastic tape and avoid undesirable crimping. To do this, the appliance and the tensioner must be tight.

The recommended point type for this application is the class 400, type 406 (as shown in figure Z32). The gauge between the needle (width) is recommended to match most with the width of the elastic or with the model being sewn, with a concentration of 4 to 5 stitches per centimeter and thin ball point needle FFG or equivalent, thick of 70 or 75.

For thinner elastic tapes thinner needles are used. The needle usually uses the title line 140 and textured thread on the shuttle (looper).

Application of taquara elastic tape

This elastic tape is used for application to the inner contour of the bulge or cup. To sew this elastic tape the most recommended machine is the flat needle stitching base with two needles (straight two needles), fixed point class 300, type 2 x 301 (according to figure Z33), with a concentration of 5 to 6 stitches per centimeter.

The use of the line 140 on the needles and on the looper is indicated. The thickness of the needle may be somewhat higher, 75 or 80, for example. In some cases where the elastic passes over the fin or thick parts of the bulge / bowl should use thicker needles to resist sewing. Because it is an elastic band of extremely dense material with little elastane, it is recommended to use the acute round tip RS or equivalent.

For this operation it is important that the elastic band pass through a specific apparatus, with tensioner adapted to the machine to adjust the tension of the same. In order to make a bra, there are important operations that need to be taken care of in relation to the seam, such as: seam of the handle, seam of the extensors, regulators, support rings of the bows / bowls, locks and brackets. In these parts, the recommended stitch is the class 300 stitch, type 301, needle thickness of 75 or 80 and thread 140. The stitch concentration ranges from 5 to 8 stitches per centimeter and the seams are intended to add a cross stitch, Class 300, type 304, with 10 stitches per centimeter to increase the strength of the part (see Figures Z34, Z35 and Z36 on the next page). If the aforementioned seams are on elastic bands, then needle with fine ball point FFG or equivalent is recommended. If the seams are on very dense material, without the inner elastane, then sharp tip needle RS or equivalent is recommended.

Other related care also contributes to the good quality of the seam, such as: checking the diameter of the hole of the stitch plate in relation to the thickness of the needle, the thread tension and the maintenance status of the presser foot. Manufacturers and suppliers of the equipment can also be consulted to inform you of the best configuration that meets your production conditions. Properly fitting a needle to a given fabric is not an easy task, as it depends on some variables, such as: speed of the machine, type of fabric to be sewn, type of stitch, type of thread, etc.

Many tests are needed until the balance of variables is reached. In order to obtain a good result of the sewing of fabrics with elastic thread, one must check the type of fabric in order to be able to decide on the best thickness and the best type of needle tip for sewing the same.

The Needle Equivalency Table shows the most suitable tip for sewing in lightweight fabrics with a high concentration of elastic threads (elastane or elastodiene), ie the most recommended needle is the thin ball needle. Also the medium / large tip needle can be used for fabrics with high elastic concentration.